Pigmentation is often approached as a problem that needs to be removed. A dark patch appears, a brightening product is added, the mark begins to fade, and the routine is considered successful. Then, weeks or months later, the same discolouration returns. In an interview with HT Lifestyle, Dr Ashwini Kandikatla, dermatologist at Dermis Oracle, Mumbai, shared reasons that could be leading to pigmentation.
The more useful question, therefore, is not how quickly pigmentation can be lightened, but why the skin continues to produce excess pigment in the first place.
This makes consistent photoprotection an important part of managing pigmentation, not simply a precaution for preventing future damage. It needs to remain a consistent part of daily skincare, including after the skin appears clearer. Not every recurring patch has an obvious external cause. Hormonal influences can play an important role, particularly in melasma , which commonly presents as symmetrical pigmentation across the cheeks, forehead or upper lip.
For pigmentation-prone skin, photoprotection is therefore better understood as part of treatment management rather than a separate preventive step.
Also read | Dermatologist shares skincare tips to protect your skin from India’s sudden weather shifts According to Dr Ashwini, visible light can also influence certain pigmentary conditions, particularly in deeper skin tones. “This is why pigmentation that repeatedly returns despite otherwise consistent skincare deserves closer attention,” advises Dr Ashwini.
In pigmentation management, consistency and tolerance can therefore be more valuable than intensity,” highlighted Dr Ashwini. There is a tendency to assume that more active ingredients will produce faster results. Frequent exfoliation , combining several potent actives, harsh scrubbing, or changing products too often can compromise the skin barrier and provoke inflammation. In pigmentation-prone skin, that irritation can become another stimulus for excess pigment. The same principle applies to home remedies and repeated salon treatments. “A routine should be judged not by how intense it feels, but by whether the skin can tolerate it consistently without redness, burning or persistent sensitivity. One of the most important shifts in pigmentation management is moving away from a one-product-fits-all approach. Effective pigmentation management begins with diagnosis, rather than simply escalating treatment intensity. Depending on the underlying condition, ingredients such as azelaic acid, retinoids, vitamin C , or niacinamide may form part of a treatment plan.
