If you think you know Kolkata, you haven’t been to Tiretti Bazaar: A practical reader guide

If you think you know Kolkata, you haven't been to Tiretti Bazaar: A practical reader guide

If you think you know Kolkata, you haven’t been to Tiretti Bazaar at 5 am. Tucked into the heart of the city is a neighbourhood that does not exist anywhere else in India — India’s one and only historical Chinatown. First, the plot twist: Kolkata’s old Chinatown was named after an Italian. Yes. Not Chinese. Italian. Also read | No red light, no green light, just hand signals: Thimphu is the only capital city on Earth that has no traffic lights at all

Every morning, the lanes of old Chinatown fill with steam, shouting aunties, and massive metal vats of traditional Chinese food – from pork and chicken momos floating in clear, peppery scallion broth to steaming fish-ball soup and noodle soup that has been simmering for hours, plus pork buns, prawn toast, and sesame balls made from recipes that are over a hundred years old. It’s authentic Chinese in Kolkata – and it’s all gone before most of the city wakes up. Per Incredibleindia.gov.in, right in the middle of all the street food madness is the Temple of Lord Guan — dedicated to the Chinese God of loyalty and strength. Think red lanterns, incense, intricate woodwork, and total silence. It’s a calm place in central Kolkata, literally steps away from the chaos.