You start a new retinol, exfoliating acid or acne treatment expecting clearer, smoother skin. Instead, a few days or weeks later, tiny bumps, pimples, redness or dry patches begin appearing. But not every reaction to a new skincare product is purging – and sometimes what looks like a temporary adjustment is actually irritation.
The internet may quickly label it “skin purging” and tell you to keep going.
Products containing retinoids and exfoliating acids can cause dryness, peeling, redness and irritation, particularly when introduced too quickly or used too frequently. In a conversation with HT Lifestyle, Dr Akriti Gupta – the founder and chief dermatologist at Jivisha Clinics, New Delhi – explains, “Skin purging is a term that is commonly used when acne seems to worsen after starting certain active ingredients. However, people should not use the word as a reason to ignore persistent redness, burning or discomfort. Retinoids remain an important acne treatment, but irritation is a recognised side effect. It is generally used to describe a temporary increase in acne-like lesions after beginning products that affect skin-cell turnover, particularly retinoids or exfoliating ingredients. In a conversation with HT Lifestyle, Dr Karuna Malhotra – the founder, cosmetologist and aesthetic physician at Advanced Skin Clinic in Rajouri Garden, New Delhi – explains, “Your skin is giving you information. If a product causes persistent burning, marked redness, cracking or significant discomfort, don’t assume that you simply need to push through it. The skin barrier may be struggling with the product or the way it is being used. Instead, the dermatologists recommend simplifying the routine. Use a gentle cleanser, a suitable moisturiser and sunscreen, while introducing active ingredients gradually. Dermatologists may also recommend reducing the frequency or amount of a retinoid when irritation occurs, depending on the individual skin and treatment plan. Severe or persistent burning, swelling, blistering, cracking, intense itching, a widespread rash or significant worsening should not simply be dismissed as “purging. A suspected allergic reaction requires particular attention. It is also worth seeking professional advice when acne continues to worsen despite adjusting the routine, becomes painful or leaves marks and scars. Dr Malhotra concludes, “The goal of skincare is not to make the skin constantly adjust to new products, but to keep it healthy and balanced. If redness, burning or persistent breakouts continue, it is better to reassess the routine rather than assume that the skin is simply purging.”
Because the skin can react differently to different ingredients, she highlights that the confusion is partly.
“purging” is not a formal medical diagnosis, according to the dermatologist.
