In this edition of HT Lifestyle’s ‘Before You Buy’ series, we explore the hype around skincare serums and what you should know before adding one to your routine. We spoke to Dr Aisshwarya Panddit, founder of NOVEA Aesthetic and Regenerative Clinic (by AuraEdge Wellness Pvt Ltd), to understand how skincare serums work, whether they live up to their claims, and what consumers should look for before buying one.
Also read | Dermatologist shares skincare tips to protect your skin from India’s sudden weather shifts Walk into any beauty aisle or scroll through Instagram, and the message is the same: you need a serum . What is far less clear is which one, and why. With brightening, anti-ageing, hydrating, and pore-refining formulas all fighting for the same shelf space, most people end up buying on packaging or a creator’s recommendation rather than on what their skin actually needs. Serums work best when they do one job. If you are dealing with dullness, look at vitamin C . For dehydration, hyaluronic acid. For fine lines and texture, retinol or peptides. For oiliness and enlarged pores, niacinamide. A product listing eight actives in one bottle is usually diluting all of them. She also advises checking whether the brand discloses the percentage at all. A vitamin C serum that does not tell you the concentration is asking you to trust marketing. Layering serums without guidance is one of the most common causes of irritation seen in clinics. Retinol and strong acids in the same routine, or vitamin C used alongside certain exfoliants, can compromise the skin barrier. “If your skin is stinging, red, or suddenly breaking out after a new serum, that is not purging.
Because that determines whether it is stable and whether your skin can actually use it, well-formulated products state it clearly, along with the form of the ingredient,.
The first mistake, according to Dr Panddit, is buying a serum that promises everything. “ Ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration, so the actives that matter should sit near the top of the list,” said Dr Panddit. That is your barrier telling you to stop,” said Dr Panddit.
A new serum should be tested on a small area for a few days before full use, and then given at least eight to twelve weeks to show results. And no serum works without sunscreen. “Most actives make the skin more sensitive to sunlight. Buying a serum without committing to daily SPF is spending money on a product you are actively undoing every morning,” added Dr Panddit.
