You place your order at the counter and collect a token. Then you move to the self-service area and submit your token. You either wait for your food (dosE) or get it quickly (idli, vadE, kesari bath, khara bath, etc.). Then you stand and eat at the steel tables, maybe grab a coffee, and move on with your day.
Any restaurant whose name ends in “Upahara” or “Upahar” is expected to be a Udupi-style Darshini with a vintage set-up.
At least, that was the mental image that came to mind as I approached Santrupthi Upahara. Located in a quiet lane in Basaveshwara Nagar, near Bengaluru Law College, the eatery soon challenged my expectations. As I approached the entrance, things changed. A gentleman was chopping coriander (presumably, for the chutney or just as a garnish). There was no coffee. And there was a small dosE tawa on which one couldn’t make more than two dosEs at a time. No steel tables. Just a couple of plastic stools for seating. The variety of items on offer was limited, too. Udupi Darshinis spoil you with mosaru vadE, buns, carrot halwa, gulab jamun and whatnot. Here, it was just idli, rice bath and dosE. The rice bath varies frequently, depending on the day of the week. I did see mushroom palav, so I might visit again just for that. On this visit, I was in the mood for a nice roast after a long walk, so I asked for a good old masal dosE. The dosE master took his seat and started preparing it. They have listed ghee roast as a separate item, so the regular roast is not made with ghee by default. I chose the regular roast. It was a large dosE with a lovely degree of roasting and a generous smear of kempu chutney, just as a vintage Bengaluru roast should have. It was served with a tangy, savoury sambar and a thick, luscious, gatti kayi chutney. The batter lacked some salt, but overall, it was good stuff! The dosE’s texture was good, and the thickness was just right. The place has the feel of an open home kitchen. You can truly see your dosE getting made, and it is a joy to watch the master make them. If you’re up for an ‘offbeat’ place, this is a good one to check out!

